27th April 2010 We left Kusadasi Marina to head northwards with the plan of being in or near to Istanbul in the sea of Marmara, the first couple of anchorages we did not take any pictures we were so happy to be on anchor and just enjoy the solitude, apart from the fact that they were not very photogenic. The first one was Çam Limani at Doganbey Point 38deg00.3n 27deg 04.6E a small bay with a weedy bottom not good anchoring we had two attempts. The next day we moved another few miles to Korman Adasi 38deg 01.9N - 26deg 52.10E where the hot springs provide a tourist attraction for trips from Kusadasi, we had two boats whilst we were there. We moved a great distance the next day too 14nm to Sigaçik 38deg 11.98N - 26deg 46.98E having a 30kts northerlie blowing us into a secure anchorage with a muddy bottom right in front of the cemetry. We dinghied into the marina which is not yet opened and when we went to the office to check prices it was somewhere between Kusadasi and Cesme but free till opening with no power or water. A very secure marina sheltered from all directions, floating docks, the village is small, the oldest part surrounded by a wall, lots of character, market on a sunday was delightful, home cooked food, craft as well as vegetables all inside the old walls. Near the marina is a bakery and pattiserie called the University Cafe the variety of bread and cakes was amazing for such a small place. We put this one down as a favourite, shopping would have to be in the nearby village Sehfresi, 5km dolmus ride.

3rd May and on to Karaada 38deg 25.71N - 26deg35.48E 45nm an island in Ildir Korfezi Decided to keep going weather and sea calm so motored anchored in the middle bay which Helmut calls donkey bay and we saw why! Lots of them on the beach and making a racket during the night also a beekeeper camped with a tent on the beach. Good anchorage but weed so we deployed 2 tandem anchors. Left the next morning after removing the new manson anchor and reploying the 65lb manson..

4th May Eski Foca 38deg 39.86N - 26deg44.9E another 37nm onwards,situated at the eastern side of Izmir Korfezi, another delightful friendly town suprisingly bigger than it looks from the anchorage. Market day is Tuesday so just missed it, we anchored right in the town bay near the trawlers which now have 3 new jetties where the anchor is shown in the cruising guide. A bit of tourism charter yachts lining the town quay and boats offering trips to Siren Rocks and hot springs. The one thing that struck us about the town with its narrow cobbled streets was the number of internet cafes, every lane and street corner. There is a large military base here a Tansas near the fishing quay and lots of restaurants we are a bit early in the season so the 2 nights spent there were peaceful. Part of this area is a marine protection zone for the monk seals.
We made our way to Bademli 39deg 00.97N - 26deg.48.23E through the south channel between the mainland and Kalem Adasi, there are hot springs dotted along the coastline and for such a great cruising area so far we had only seen one other yacht. Two more did appear whilst we were on anchor in Bademli Limani, good mud holding, olive groves and a tiny shallow bay further in used by small fishing boats. There was a holiday the day we were there and everyone was enjoying a picnic amongst the olive trees. We met one extended family who invited us to sit and have fruit and tea, we did get an opportunity to practice our turkish, it always seems to cause some hilarity.

7th May 12,to Ayvalik 39deg18.7N - 26deg 40.E We managed to sail for 1.5hrs today with a very light southerly and entered into the channel markers at about 1pm we anchored off the marina wall in 6mts of mud, the wind died and we had a lazy afternoon managing to catch up with emails. Venturing ashore the next day we left the dinghy on a small very littered beach/ramp. The walk into town with a cay and pastry stop was interesting as most of the old towns are with narrow cobbled streets and friendly people. After a good forage lunch was had and we returned to the dinghy after visiting Migros supermarket, but did not find this as good as the marina Migros in Kusadasi.
We decided to leave the following morning taking advantage of the calm forecast and motored round the lake looking at the other hard stand that the man in the chandlery had told us about. There were a couple of yachts up there along with timber tourist boats, but it is a ramshackle looking place and think they must have had rails and a tractor to pull out with.

9th May 12 Alibay 39deg19.7N - 26deg40.3E 6mts mud We had left the anchorage midday and by the time we got to the end of the channel markers it was 25kts on the nose, so being the sensible people that we are, we turned to safely anchor in one bay east of Alibay. Three other yachts returned also - sensible people.

10th May 12,to Poroslene Bay 6mts mud and weed 39deg22.5 - 26deg35.6Emud and weed anchorage, not to be outdone by time again we left at 8am and reached the next anchorage by 0920, had a forage ashore but was amazed at the amount of rubbish, plastic bottles an dbags everywhere, a stagnant looking water course at the head of the bay, so unlike the Turkey we have seen so far. It was a sheltered anchorage with only goats and seagulls doing what they do best.

11th May 12 Sirvice Bay 39deg 28.08N - 26deg12.6E 6mt sand Sheltered from NW-N and NE but any West or East wind would bring in a swell added to the waves from the passing ships, we had calm weather so it was ok. Went ashore only two very small shops and no fresh produce, I think we just missed the traveling market van. We had dinner at the small restaurant near the small fishing harbour which turned out to be a little more expensive than expected 60tlr for one fish and 4 fingerlings (frozen) between us, bread and salad and 2 beers but a pleasant setting. We were the only customers.
12th May 12 Bozcaada 39deg 49.5N - 26deg 04E 4mts sand water temp down to 16deg! We had a look at the harbour but the large ferries detered us and as conditions were calm we anchored in a small bay tucked behind an island. The castle here looked intact and would have been worth a trip ashore but the southerly and the Dardanalles were beckoning and there is always the return trip!

13th May Çanakkale 40deg 09.3N - 26deg 24.4EIt took 7.5hrs to do the 28nm we had current against us and at one time we were only doing 2.3kts! The anchorage near the war memorials was open to the south and did not look inviting, we could see them from across the straits it is advisable for yachts to keep to the starboard side of the straits where in places there is a counter current, which we found but only for a short while nearing Canakalle where the channel narrows it was worse, but turning into the anchorage and marina there is no affect. Water temperature here was 15.9degs. There was a steady stream of shipping heading south in the morning and north in the afternoon with constant radio traffic, shipping of all kinds including one cruise liner. We enjoyed Canakalle and the maritime museum in the old fort grounds was well worth the visit, and the fort itself, the day we were there a ceremony was being held for people old enough to be conscripted, full uniform, a band the works, it was explained to us by a helpful friendly Captain that their disabilities prevented them from active service but they could still graduate in style. We thought this was a very touching gesture. It is one thing to hear about Galipoli in Australia and to be here and see all the historical memorabilia is another, we did get feeling of pride respect and no sense of resentment along with many other emotions, it certainly left an impression on me, what a leader in Ataturk.
The Market in Canakelle is on a Friday, very large mixed market, it was here that one of the stall holders refused payment for 500gms of his best rice (I had asked for the cheaper one) saying that it was a gift welcoming us to Turkey! We did manage to find a Migro supermarket but not a large one it is always on the list when we stop here as I am in search of brown sugar and thick marmalade, so far only found the runny kind.

A southerly at last bringing the rain! We had a great sail from Canakelle through the straits, in mist and rain the current very lively just north of Canakelle on the curve. We made our way to the first Sea of Marmara anchorage Ilyas Te 40deg 23.8N - 26deg 49E cold and little wet, it blew through the night reaching 40kts but we were well anchored with plenty of room, a little rolly and headed off next morning round to Karabiga 40deg 24.3N - 27deg 18.9E total 29nms the wind was still from the south up to 35kts at times, a good sail better than motoring and sky was clear. We passed a bay with three tall ships anchored they were on their way to a regatta through the Bospherous to Bulgaria. Rounding the point into the Karabiga past the old wall or what's left of it there is a small sailing school and we anchored there, dinghied into the fishing wharf which is much bigger than it looks, tied up went for a walk, good bakery 3 small mini markets and one vegetable shop, did not find out which day was market day. We had about 3 nights there and one rain storm from the NW but we were sheltered.

We motored between the Marmara Islands to Yigitlar 40deg 27.7N 27deg 31.7E, anchored in sand good holding. There is a new harbour with lots of room, a dredge had been working, no facilities and no one approached the only yacht tied up there. The village was unusually derelict looking and a dolmus ran to the other side ot the island which is reputedly more prosperous. Then it was time for the decision to head 70nm to Princess Islands or 30 across to the north shores of Marmara, we went to the northern shores crossing the shipping lanes, but were able to sail for about 3 hours then motored when the wind died and anchored in Silivri 41deg 04.4N 28deg 14.1E there was a small harbour we did not go ashore and left the next morning for Buyukemeçe 41deg 00N 28deg 34.9E where looking on google earth we saw what looked like a new marina! We went to the head of the bay on the left was a fishing harbour and in the centre of the bay was a wall surrounding what was to be a marina, the wall had collapsed in a couple of places and when we dinghied inside it had silted up around the edges and all sorts of flotsam had collected with not a very attractive smell. So we stayed anchored where we were for 3 nights and dinghied ashore, the shopping was good a large shopping mall nearby with a Migros store I even found some brown sugar! The coastline we were now sailing along was looking more and more congested no more open spaces and a lot more industry, we were finally getting close to Istanbul. Another 22nms further on and we anchored in Istanbul 41deg 59N 28deg 56.9E black slimy mud! We had passed Atakoy marina on the way and decided it was too busy and crowded to attempt to go in for fuel. We anchored amongst the waiting tankers just west of the IDO Ferry terminal,under the blue Mosque, we watched tenders going ashore at the rock wall and dropping of crew but decided that was too much for our little dinghy, especially when it rained and we realized we were opposite the overflow outlet, phew! The water was black, the next morning we crossed the bottom of the Bospherous, there was all sorts of shipping, ferries,fishing boats,tankers,bulk carriers, cruise ships, and sight seeing boats,tugs, supply boats up and down, the current did not seem too bad but then with all the wash from the other vessels it was not too apparent. We made it accross to the bay near Kalamas/Fenerbache marinas 40deg 58N 29deg 02.1E and anchored close to the wall in about 1.5mtrs, it was the 23rd May and friends were not arriving till 25th May! So we had time to reconnoitre and do some hunting and gathering.

We found the small creek on the eastern side of the bay and tied the dinghy to the wall near steps, the local fishermen/boatmen indicated that it would be okay, it is a small creek with concrete banks but you don't want to go too far up near the bridge as there is a lot of rubbish, a bloated dead cat amongst other things! But a great place to leave the dinghy and only a 10-15min walk straight through the park across the road up the hill and down to the Eminonu/Karakoy ferry. There is a bit of a one way system near the bridge and the buses only come from the ferry to the stop near the bridge, going to the ferry I never did find that bus! Also just across the bridge is a large Migros better than the one in the Marina. Market is on a Tuesday at Hasanpasa, we walked both ways, very busy area about 10-15min walk. Carrefour can be seen from the ferry as it approaches Hydarpasa station, I walked to it from the ferry and bus station along the main road heading northwards about 10min walk, coming back I walked to the ferry terminal and caught the F1 bus, it is a very busy bus station but eventualy found someone who knew where the bus was, people are very helpful and will go out of there way to make sure you get to the right place. The public transport here is fantastic, 1.5tl anywhere, and you can buy a Jeton button thing that can be used on buses, ferries,trains and trams, but not dolmush as they are privatley owned. We have never had to wait more than a few minutes for any mode of transport.

I know most of this will interest cruising boats, the alternative is to put is seperately for download but internet time is precious and only want to do it once, too many things to see out there.